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Here's an interesting viewpoint:
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THE DEBILITATING DELUSION OF PROGRESSIVE SURFING
Is the idea of progressive surfing actually causing the general surfing public to regress? Probably never in surfing history have such a high percentage of surfers rode such a low percentage of waves. This is often due to surfboard choice, but it is more than that. The problem stems from a state of mind. Although a comparitively short, thin, narrow board will generally perform better in chest high plus, hollow surf, this is also generally all it is good for. It has now become normal to see shortboards completely submerged and progressive longboards half submerged. The high performance surfer has, whether he knows it or not, decided to sacrifice most of the waves in the world, and even most of the parts of the best waves. He must stay in a very tight area, on a very specific type of wave - the best area, yes, but if the wave significantly slows down, or speeds up, he is, compared to a surfer with a larger board, out of luck.
Not only does the progressive surfer use retrictive equipment, but he restricts himself in the length of ride, often opting for some spectacular manuever that fails, and leaves another wave unridden. Simply riding the wave seems unthinkable.
We've all seen it.
Thank gawd for mats!
G
PS Here's the source: http://www.surfersteve.com/misconceptions.htm
]
THE DEBILITATING DELUSION OF PROGRESSIVE SURFING
Is the idea of progressive surfing actually causing the general surfing public to regress? Probably never in surfing history have such a high percentage of surfers rode such a low percentage of waves. This is often due to surfboard choice, but it is more than that. The problem stems from a state of mind. Although a comparitively short, thin, narrow board will generally perform better in chest high plus, hollow surf, this is also generally all it is good for. It has now become normal to see shortboards completely submerged and progressive longboards half submerged. The high performance surfer has, whether he knows it or not, decided to sacrifice most of the waves in the world, and even most of the parts of the best waves. He must stay in a very tight area, on a very specific type of wave - the best area, yes, but if the wave significantly slows down, or speeds up, he is, compared to a surfer with a larger board, out of luck.
Not only does the progressive surfer use retrictive equipment, but he restricts himself in the length of ride, often opting for some spectacular manuever that fails, and leaves another wave unridden. Simply riding the wave seems unthinkable.
We've all seen it.
Thank gawd for mats!
G
PS Here's the source: http://www.surfersteve.com/misconceptions.htm
