Blimp Fri Dec 30, 2011 9:10 pm
Got to Croyed just on Low water, there were no more than seven in the water at any time reckon it was about 5ft when I first got in and it got bigger and bigger.First couple of waves just took the drop and went straight to get my eye in had a problem with not being able to paddle fast enought to catch as many waves as I would have liked in the end sat out deeper and took off on breaking shoulders. Couple of waves went through all four gears and was in overdrive never been so fast on a wave. Impact zone was brutal but only lost my mat once when I let it go to try and get under a monster about to break on my head my mat somehow ened up behind me so did not need to swim for it.Drove along the coast after my surf Putsborough was clean 2ft to 3ft and rammed solid but did see a really nice wave around Woolacombe that I wished I surfed.
The wind got up overnight and I ened surfing Putsborough all though a bit of a mess there was the odd wave that was keeping it,s shape